So You Wanna Play Pro Golf?
Photo by nsaplayer
Pebble Beach, TPC Sawgrass, Doral’s Blue Monster, and Harbour Town. These are just some of the famous courses that the top tour professionals play year in and year out. Ah, the good life, right?
Well, yes. But the journey to get to the top of the mountain of professional golf is far from easy. The fact of the matter is it takes a lot of time, effort, and money to even attempt this journey. And, that’s assuming the player has the talent and ability in the first place.
More than a few times per year, USGTF examiners hear a candidate in his 40’s say that he plans to “chase the senior tour” when he gets near 50. Then, some of these same candidates fail to break 80 during the playing ability test.
This is not to discourage those who want to chase their dreams. However, let’s paint an accurate picture of what it takes to someday “make it.” As teachers, a lot of us undoubtedly have students who truly aspire to playing on the PGA or Champions Tour. They may think they’re good enough. They may be right, but more often than not…
Playing Ability
All of the time, effort, and money in the world won’t do one bit of good unless the player has the ability, or at least the potential, to shoot low scores consistently on tough courses. Take our hometown hero, for example. He can average 72 on his home course, which means he breaks par almost half of the time. So far so good, right?
Upon closer examination, he plays the white tees with the boys at 6,400 yards on a course rated 70.0. Since most golfers in the scratch range average about two strokes over their handicaps, this means our hometown hero is a legitimate scratch golfer, handicap 0. So far so good, right?
Now, some of the old-money boys at the club think they have a real hotshot on their hands, and if he could only play full-time, he’d no doubt be playing with Tiger and Phil someday. So, they pool their money and send their man out on the mini-tour circuit. So far so good, right?
Much to their surprise, after six events he hasn’t even come close to cashing a check. So far, uh, not so good. What happened?
Most mini-tours pay only the top 1/3 of the field. They play their events on courses not rated at 70.0, but perhaps 73.5. To cash a check, a two-round score of 144 (even par) is normally reasonable. This means our hometown hero must play to a +3.5 handicap standard (the average handicap of someone who averages 1.5 below the course rating) just to cash a check!
Winning? That might be a score of 136 or lower. If he wants to win or be one of the top finishers (where the real money in mini-tour golf is), he needs to play to at least a +6 handicap standard in that tournament.
Now the old money boys are accusing their man of not trying hard enough, of not putting in enough effort. But he is. He’s practicing more than he ever has, and he is showing some improvement. In fact, his tournament handicap is +1. Yet, he still hasn’t made a dime – why not?
Unless a golfer can play to at least a +2 handicap in competition, he probably has no future in the pro game – not even in banging out a few bucks on the mini-tours, even at the senior level.
Lee Trevino suggested a test many years ago to see if someone was ready for pro golf. Take him to six courses he’s never played before and have him play the back tees. If he can shoot no worse than +6 total for the six rounds, playing under strict USGA rules, Trevino said, you might have a winner on your hands.
The late USGTF examiner John Nichols, a former PGA Tour player, had a unique perspective on what it takes. He suggested taking the prospective tour player to the up tees and having him play from there. If or when the player could shoot at least a 65 from these up tees, he needed to move back one set and repeat the process until he reached the back tees. If the player could shoot a 65 from the back tees, John said, only then would he be ready for pro golf.
Time And Effort
We all hear stories how Vijay Singh hits balls for hours on end each and every day, how Ben Hogan would work from sunup to sundown, and how Trevino would chastise rookies by saying, “The sun’s up, young man – why aren’t you playing golf?”
It’s not necessary to put in such yeoman work in order to play one’s best, but these anecdotes underscore the fact that it does take a lot of time and effort to reach the top echelons of the sport. Some players, like Carlos Franco, are famous for not working much, but they are few and far between.
If a mini-tour player is playing two or three competitive rounds per week, he or she had better be playing and practicing all but one day the rest of the week (it’s okay to take one day off to re-charge). A typical light non-tournament day might include an hour of warming up, playing 18 holes, and then practicing for two hours afterwards. In other words, it’s a real job – seven to ten hours per day.
Money
Talented baseball, basketball, and football players are lucky – someone is willing to foot the bill for them to play. Not so in professional golf.
Let’s say someone has qualified to play the Hooters Tour, arguably the third strongest tour in theUnited States. First, he had to pay $2,000 plus expenses just to go through the “ranking school” qualifying tournament. Next, he has to find a way to pay the entry fee each week, $1,100. Then you have travel, hotel, and meal expenses. For simplicity’s purposes, let’s say this player lives at home with a generous mom and dad who don’t charge for room and board.
We’re still looking at close to $30,000. There are cheaper alternatives, but they generally don’t offer a very big field or purse. And let’s not forget the PGA Tour Q-school: $5,000 plus expenses. Frankly, unless someone is ultra-talented to where he can produce a positive cash flow almost immediately, it’s a rich person’s game.
Summary
Playing professional golf is an extremely difficult endeavor, and many have unrealistic beliefs about their abilities and potential. Talent and ability are only the starting points in this most arduous of journeys.
Michelle Wie has reached the top of her wide, well-coiled, and majestic top of backswing position. What happens next to get her started in delivering all this power to that teed up ball? I will answer that question shortly. Right now, I think it is crucial to first present the three popular theories or arguments about what happens to complete the backswing and start the downswing.
Theory #1
There is no overlap movements in the two halves of the swing. As the player has just about but not quite finished turning his or her body, while the hands and the club have not quite reached their highest point in the backswing, the player actually starts the downswing by shifting the hips later – ally toward the target. This lateral move of the hips puts so much stress on the coil of the upper body, that it is automatically forced to begin uncoiling, like a taut rubber band whose tension is released, snapping the band back. (I disagree with this movement-in-two- directions-at-the-completion of- the-backswing concept. I don’t think it is physically impossible for any golfer to consciously and successfully make a lateral move with the hip toward the target while the hands and the club are still going up to the top of the backswing.)
Theory #2
The player winds the hips and shoulders so far around in a clockwise direction that the force of the windup catapults the arms, body, and club down, due to centrifugal force. In other words, the downswing is triggered automatically. (Although I agree that centrifugal force plays a key role in the downswing, by virtue of the arms and club swinging outward from the body’s center toward the ball, I don’t agree with the theory that the downswing just happens by some form of houdini-like magical spring-back action. On the contrary, it must be triggered by a specific move.)
Theory #3
The theory of synchronization calls for the player to first start the backswing by rotating the left knee inward, turning the left shoulder under the chin, coiling the left hip clockwise, and pushing the club away with the left hand on the backswing. Second, to trigger the downswing action by doing the opposite – simultaneously turning the left knee outward toward the target, rotating the left shoulder up and away from the chin, uncoiling the left hip in a counterclockwise direction, and pulling the club down with the left hand. (I disagree with this theory on the basis that it is un-natural for a right handed player to employ left hand triggers. In fact, you’ll soon be hearing more on this subject.)
I’ve just cited the three main theories when, in fact, the list goes on and on; it’s so exhaustive that you can appreciate why so many amateur golfers are befuddled. The reason: I believe many teachers are too hung up on left side golf than right side golf.
Bentgrass is not well-adapted to southern climates. Bentgrass in the South is limited to putting greens, and even then requires a certain temperate climate, extensive management, and high-input costs. Typically, the high maintenance costs of Bentgrass greens in the South are not cost-effective. However, New England states and the Pacific Northwest have ideal climatic conditions for Bentgrass. In Europe and parts of Asia, the grass is native and commonly found in most turf.
Fescue is often considered a low-input cool season grass. Fescue is commonly found on golf courses that are in coastal regions of the U.S. and Great Britain. Fescue is primarily found in the rough. It is a very sturdy grass that turns golden and can grow three feet high. Fescue is sometimes used as a fairway grass, especially in native coastal regions.
Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass are often found on northern cooler climate golf courses. Some characteristics are an upright growth habit, tolerance to close mowing, and the aesthetic appeal of “striping” that reel mowers create on the turf. Both types of grasses do not tolerate high heat and can be susceptible to diseases when stressed.
Mention the words Poa annua to a greens superintendent in the South and you will hear many unkind words spoken about this grass. It is considered a major weed on golf course putting greens and fairways in many parts of the United States and the world.
The truth is, in northern and cooler climates, Poa annua greens are considered the norm and can provide good putting surfaces. It is often mixed with Bentgrass and some rye grasses. There are many different sub-species of Poa annua, and some greens are infested with as many as twenty different types.
The secret to Poa annua greens lies in utilizing only the varieties that provide high quality putting surfaces. As seen at Oakmont and Torrey Pines, Poa annua mixed with Bentgrass can provide a championship-caliber putting surface.
Many northern golf courses also have a close cousin of Poa annua call Poa trivialis. It is sometimes considered a weed, but it can provide a high quality putting surface, as well. In fact, it is often used to winter overseed Bermudagrass greens in the South.
Southern Climates
Southern climates are better suited for warm season grasses that can withstand the harsher climates. The South offers a variety of climate problems, such as warm summers and cold winters, heat, drought, excessive rain, and high humidity. The most common grass is Bermuda, with its many varieties, but there is some progress being made with other grasses such as zoysia and Seashore Paspalum. In the extreme South, putting greens are almost exclusively Bermuda.
Bermuda grass is a major turf species for golf courses. In the United States, the distribution of Bermuda grass extends from New Jersey and Maryland southward to Florida, and westward to Kansas and Texas. Modern irrigation extends Bermuda grass use westward to southern New Mexico, Arizona and California. Recently, the development of more cold-hardy varieties of Bermuda grass has increased use near its northern limits.
Bermuda grass is a warm-season perennial species adapted to tropical and subtropical climates. It grows best under extended periods of high temperatures, mild winters, and moderate-to-high rainfall. It does not tolerate low winter temperature and becomes dormant when average temperatures drop below 50°F, and the grass begins to discolor. Temperatures below freezing kill the leaves and stems. Bermuda grass remains dormant until average daily temperatures rise above 50°F for several days. In warm climates that are frost-free, Bermuda grass remains green throughout the year.
With the right climate, Bermuda grass is known for its hardiness on golf courses. There are many new modern varieties that specialize in certain usages such as fairway grass, tee boxes, and putting greens. In the past, Bermuda grass greens were known for a “graininess” that was not desirable. But, with recent development in finer hybrids, Bermuda greens are beginning to rival Bentgrass’s dominance as king of putting surfaces. Some of these new putting green hybrids are Mini Verde, Champion, and TifEagle. One unique aspect of hybridized Bermuda is that it must be plugged, sprigged, or sodded, as hybrid Bermuda grasses are sterile.
In temperate climates where Bermuda becomes dormant in the winter, there has been development of hybridized Bermuda that tolerates more cold. However, often facilities in temperate climates simply “overseed” the golf course in winter with cool season grasses such as rye and Poa trivialis.
Bermuda grass tends to build up a thatch layer of un-decomposed organic matter just above the soil surface. This is often seen in putting greens. Proper mowing is essential to prevent the accumulation of thatch in turf. Also, thatch removal by mechanical means is required. Vertical mowers (verti-cutting) are used to remove excess thatch and grain, especially on putting surfaces.
In recent years zoysia grass and Seaside Paspalum have shown some promise as a golf course turf grasses, especially on fairways and tee boxes. Zoysia grasses are among the most wear-tolerant turf grasses. However, it has a slow rate of growth and takes longer to recuperate. It can tolerate some shade and is often used on tee boxes where Bermuda grass will not perform. Like Bermuda grass, zoysia grass tends to build up a thatch layer and requires some verti-cutting.
Seashore Paspalum is the newest golf and sports turf grass. It has many favorable attributes, including hardiness for some harsh conditions. It can be used in conditions that are not an ideal environment for other grasses, such as Bermuda. When lack of fresh water is an issue, Paspalums can tolerate water that is effluent, brackish or with a certain amounts of salinity. This quality makes it ideal for harsh environment regions, including areas affected by salt water spray, tropical storms, and various other challenging conditions.
Typically, Paspalum is used in fairway and rough areas, although a new variety called “SeaDwarf” is now being used on putting greens. Paspalum is offering some exciting new options for golf courses to go more “green” with less maintenance costs.
Maintenance Practices
After understanding which grasses best fit each facility, maintenance practices become a major issue in keeping the golf course up to certain standards. These standards are dictated by available budget, clientele, and goals of each facility.
The turf must be able to tolerate low heights of cut, weather conditions, and wear-and-tear. The secret to keeping golf course turf up to standard is to keep it strong and healthy. Important things that affect turf health are sunlight, air movement, irrigation and drainage.
The turf grasses are cut at low heights; therefore, they require plenty of sunlight, especially in the morning. This is important to remember when considering the placement of current trees and future tree plantings.
Air movement is also important, especially during hot and/or humid days. Again, too many trees are often the culprit for poor air circulation. Locations in valleys or bottoms of slopes also decrease air flow.
Water is a major factor in golf course turf. Remember, it is as important to be able to put water on the turf quickly, but it is equally important to remove water quickly with proper drainage. A good golf course management program should have an irrigation system that will give even coverage, especially on the greens. Excessive water from rain needs to be removed through drainage. This is achieved by good surface and subsurface drainage.
Each facility should have a golf course management program with an agronomic plan. Fertilizer should be based on soil test results. Fertilizer and chemical applications are a big expense for a golf course. The trend is to go with more natural methods to be more economical and environmentally friendly. Aerating, verti-cutting, and topdressing are other important practices which control the natural organic layer of thatch that will develop. The turf must be cut often; therefore, adequate equipment and manpower are large parts of the budget plan.
Conclusions
Today’s golf course managers need to have certain knowledge of golf course turf and maintenance practices. By understanding the golf facility’s maintenance requirements, it will help the manger:
• communicate with their clients about current facility conditions and projects;
• understand the role of the greens superintendent & challenges of golf course maintenance
• develop maintenance budgets and future projects that will enhance a facility.
Therefore, know your turf! 
